Keeping the hydraulic pump pre-filter clean is very important to the operation of your tractors hydraulic system. This filter is located under the drivers seat, feeds the pump that is located on the right side of the engine which in turn produces pressure for the FEL, Power Steering, and 3 Point system. This pump is cooled and lubricated by the same oil it pumps and therefor a starvation of the pump due to restricted flow will most likely cause complete failure or at the very least cause improper wear, early failure and/or reduced pressure and flow. Indications that your filter is dirty would be either, no or sluggish loader or power steering operation especially during first start up or cold temperatures. The manufacturing process can and will
allow a significant amount of metal filings or contaminates to be in the system.  Just draining and replacing the oil will not clean
the filter.  It is our highest recommendation that this bulletin be followed immediately before any further operation is attempted no matter what hours are on the engine.  Virtually no oil is lost during this procedure.  The bulletin is specifically written for
the Q18-28 and is not valid for the 30-35 HP Jinma tractor - See Advisory #2

1) If you have a front end loader make sure it is on the ground and no pressure is in the system.  With tractor turned off move
all control valves back and forth to neutralize any pressure.

2)  Remove the 4 bolts than hold down the operator seat assembly and remove the seat.

4)  Remove 3 bolts that hold the cover/adapter plate to the top of the reservoir.

5)  Gently, without harming the gasket lift this entire assembly up and out of the well.  Oil should be near the top of the
housing. Do not re-install a damaged gasket - make a new one from bulk gasket material available at any auto parts store.

6)  Disassemble this filter assembly completely.  Wash all metal components in solvent, and use compressed air to blow from
the inside out, this will clean the wire mesh screen.  Do not crush or deform the wire mesh. If you have damaged this filter or broken the 3 bolt housing then call us for a replacement - we normally stock these items. Wipe off two rubber gaskets and re-assemble.  (hint; a small amount of axle grease on the gaskets will hold them in place while you reassemble it). Firmly tighten the bolt into the bottom of the filter assembly and carefully inspect the wire mesh to confirm it does not have any gaps around the outside on either end.

7) Drop the filter assembly back into the housing and tighten the 3 bolts and re-attach the suction line.

8)  The pump must be primed and will not normally pickup oil from the filter due to air which is now in the intake line. To aid in priming connect the 2 mid ship hydraulic quick connects together by disconnecting the FEL  and butt connect them together. This is the same way your tractor was shipped prior to installing the FEL. If you do not have an FEL then this is not necessary.

9) Start tractor for approximately 1 minute and check for leaks. If you listen carefully you should hear the pump pick up oil almost immediately and prime itself. Shut off the tractor after 1 minute.

10) Re-hook the quick connects in and out of the FEL, start up the tractor and operate your loader. Shut down and re-check your oil level. Re-install the drivers seat.

The Fluid Intake Filter for the 30 and 35 HP Jinma tractor is in a different location than the 18-28 HP. Please refer to cautionary item #1 in Service Advisory for 18-28 HP before attempting this cleaning.

The filter for the 30-35 HP tractor Hydraulic System is located inside the reservoir on the forward left side under the seat (See Picture). For this cleaning you will need a bucket and possibly a funnel to catch oil that will run out when you remove it. If you wish to drain your hydraulic fluid and replace it, then now would be a good time. The drain for this reservoir is located on the rear and just below the right side 3 point lift arm (See Picture).

1) First remove the bolt holding the steel line to the 3 bolt plate. This is a banjo fitting and will have a gasket on each side of the steel fitting - Don't loose these and don't forget to re-install them when you are done.

2) Next remove the 3 bolts holding the plate to the side of the reservoir and remove the filter by pulling it straight out of the reservoir. Follow filter cleaning instructions #5, #6, #7 for the 18-28 HP tractors as shown above and then reassemble the entire unit. Don't forget to refill your system with either #303 or #154 hydraulic fluid. The dipstick is located behind the seat
and is normally painted red.

Your JW03 Backhoe has been designed with the same filter system as the tractor. This filter is located on the left side of the BH oil reservoir, and is also held on by 3 bolts. On this system you will need a clean bucket to catch the just under 3 gallons of oil so it will not leak out onto the ground. It is best to drive the right side of your tractor up on blocks prior to unbolting the filter assembly as this will aid in getting all the old oil out of the tank. Check the oil, if it smells burnt, or is extremely milky then you should replace it. If your oil looks good and you don't find many contaminants then you can strain the oil prior to putting it back in the reservoir. A paint filter works good for this and helps to remove debris and contaminants that may be in the system.

1) As always when working with any hydraulics. Shut down the tractor. Move all control levers to minimize pressure.

2) Lower the left stabilization pad to make access easier.

3) Remove the nut holding the hydraulic hose going to the filter housing. Check for compound washer either in the nut or in a groove located on the opposite fitting. Remove it and set aside.

4) Loosen and remove the 3 bolts holding the housing in place. Remember the bucket to catch oil.

5) Remove the filter assembly.  Disassemble this filter assembly completely.  Wash all metal components in solvent, and use compressed air to blow from the inside out, this will clean the wire mesh screen.  Do not crush or deform the wire mesh. If you have damaged this filter or broken the 3 bolt housing then call us for a replacement - we normally stock these items. Wipe off two rubber gaskets and re-assemble.  (hint; a small amount of axle grease on the gaskets will hold them in place while you reassemble it). Firmly tighten the bolt into the bottom of the filter assembly and carefully inspect the wire mesh to confirm it does not have any gaps around the outside on either end.

6) Reinstall the filter assembly (don't forget the gasket) back into the tank and tighten the 3 bolts. Now put the compound washer back into the groove of the threaded fitting. If you didn't have one to begin with then a properly fitted rubber O-ring will suffice or you can purchase them from our parts stock. Be sure to coat an O-ring with grease to prevent pinching. Grease also works good to keep the compound washer in place while assembling. This washer is necessary to prevent air intake and leaks to the otherwise closed system. This same compound washer is used in many of your hydraulic fittings so is best to keep some spares around.

You should check your fuel injection pump oil regularly and change it yearly. The oil is for splash lubrication of the steel balls and other moving parts inside the mechanical governor. We have found that hydraulic or engine oil is acceptable for use. The fill plug (A) is toward the rear of the injector pump and is mounted on top with a breather. The drain (C) is on the bottom. Total oil volume is about 4 oz. or 1/4 of a pint if completely empty. To fill and check, first remove the (A) breather on top, then remove the rubber cap (not always included) from bottom of (B) and add oil very slowly, one ounce at a time. When oil comes out (B) then it is full. Wait a full 15 minutes for excess oil to run out prior to starting engine. Once oil has stopped then replace rubber cap (B) and breather (A).

Draining and Changing your oils is fairly straight forward and easy. Above we have shown you the drain locations for each system. Your engine uses standard weight oils. We use HD 30 but 10-40 and other weights will work also. Use what ever weight oil you are running in your vehicles which would be appropriate for your local temperature conditions. The transmission and hydraulic system use the same oil. Choose a quality hydraulic oil such as #303 from New Holland.

The ignition switch that came with your Jinma 18-28 HP tractor is multifunction and can present some problems after significant use. It can have intermittent faults where the momentary glow plugs and starter are immediately on when you turn the key to the first position (lights). In other words, all three posts are hot, #2 for lights, #3 for glow plugs, and #4 for starter solenoid. This will cause your 30 amp fuse to blow consistently. A replacement switch is available through your local New Holland dealer and was used on Ford Series 2000-9000 tractors from about 1965 on. Ask for Ford Part # D 5NN11N501A. If you would still like to use a direct replacement that requires nothing other than wire for wire exchange then we normally stock them. Ask for Jinma part number #TY290